For an overview of this simple precedure, please visit our Troubleshooting and Maintenance videos webpage.

Possible debris on washer or seating. Remove valve, clean rubber washer and seating. Or, valve needs replacing.

To maintain the appearance of these fittings please ensure they are cleaned regularly using a clean soft damp cloth only. Abrasive cleaners or detergents must not be used as they may cause surface deterioration.

Mains pressure is too high. Reduce accordingly. NB a pressure-reducing valve may be required.

Remove indice cap and tighten retaining screw. NB screw should be supplied with an anti rotational washer or have a serrated underside.

If ceramic disc valve, make sure you have a minimum of 0.5 bar operating pressure (as recommended) Or, If a standard screw down valve, make sure pipe work has been flushed through thoroughly before connecting to your water supply to remove any debris that may be restricting the flow.

Make sure grub screw at back of spout is tightened. Or, where the fixing mechanism is a nut, make sure this has been screwed down fully.

‘O’ ring on spout has perished, or has been cut. Probably caused by pushing the spout into the main body before opening the grub screw fully at the back of the spout. Replace ‘O’ ring. Or, to loosen the grub screw and ensure spout is pushed fully into the main body to form a double seal. Retighten the grub screw.

Plastic bush on spline has worn. Replace with new plastic bush.

Remove the diverter handle, unscrew the brass gland nut and replace the diverter assembly with a new spare. Re assemble diverter handle.

Diverter washer could be damaged. Lift diverter knob and use a thin adjustable spanner. Locate on nut and unscrew diverter. Check washer on bottom and replace if damaged. Or, if bath shower mixer is with ceramic disc technology and if water pressure is below 0.5 bar (as recommended) and it will not hold the diverter knob in the open position, proceed as above and remove the diverter spring. Reassemble diverter.

Replace with new legs.

Please order a pair of wall mounted couplings.

Remove decorative base flange and re-fit the product.

Remove spout, lift diverter knob at back of spout and check diverter washer is still in place. Or, water pressure is too low, minimum pressure required is 0.5 bar (as recommended).

Make sure spout is fitted to ‘T’’ connector using enough P.T.F.E. tape (or other suitable sealant) to secure in position. Make sure spout is secured correctly within the wall cavity to avoid movement.

Check plug ‘O’ ring is not damaged. Or, check all thread on bottom of plug is set to correct height. Or possible fault with moulding on the waste hole in the basin bowl. Please ensure enough sealant is used between bowl and waste (washers only are not enough to seal some wastes).

Make sure rod connector is fitted correctly, and height of all thread on plug has been set correctly.

The main cause of ceramic tap disc tap to drip is that the pipe work hasn’t been flushed of debris on installation. Remove headwork and valve and check ceramic discs for signs of scouring. If scouring or damage is evident, replace ceramic disc valve/cartridge.

For an overview of this simple procedure, please visit our Troubleshooting and Maintenance videos webpage.

If leaking, check washer is still in place between handset and end of shower hose. Or If still leaking, or damaged, replace with new handset.

Ensure hot water supply is at least 60C. Make sure you have equal pressures. Check for airlocks in pipe work. Ensure there are no inverted U’s in any of the pipe work runs.

Insufficient hot water storage

Hot and cold supply connections have been made in reverse - re-connect correctly.

Turn down the flow of hot water from the pump using the in-line isolator valve.

Incoming pressure exceeds 5 bar - ensure you have fitted pressure reducing valve in the mains supply pipe. Ensure hot water supply is at least 60C.

Incoming pressure exceeds 5 bar - ensure you have fitted a pressure reducing valve in the mains supply pipe immediately after stopcock to premises.

Ensure the boiler is still firing. Adjust the boiler to the hottest output, not the best flow

All rooms are individual and therefore the heat output required from your selected radiator will vary. It is important you choose the correct radiator to ensure enough heat is generated to keep you comfortable. A sensible tip is to always choose a model with a higher heat output than you require, as this can always be controlled by turning them down.

All our radiators carry the heat output measured in either: o BTU’s (British Thermal Unit) or o Watts Our BTU calculations use the British Standard of Delta t60c

It is highly recommended that your installer calculates the BTU requirement for each applicable room, so you can get the maximum heat benefit from your chosen radiator. We strongly suggest this is done before purchasing your radiator.

Basically, the bigger surface area that a radiator has the more heat output will be generated. Another general guide is that painted finishes offer a slightly better heat output than chrome finished items. To optimize the space you have available we offer radiator designs that can be fitted horizontally or vertically. To get additional heat output from the same area, you can also choose options that include multi rows of tubes, panels & columns.

From stock, we offer the most current fashionable colour options across a wide range of products, all of which can be seen in our current brochures. Please note that due to the printing process, the actual colours on the radiators may vary slightly from those shown in our brochures.

All our dimensional details are published in our current brochures. However, due to manufacturing tolerances, we strongly suggest that your final pipework position is not completed until you actually receive delivery of your radiator.

Where your installation location does not have immediate access to an existing water supply, we can offer purpose made electric-only products for a quick and easy solution to your heating needs. These electric only products are supplied pre filled with an electrical inhibitor solution, and fitted with a compatible heating element.

Some of our radiators can also work as dual fuel applications, which means when your main heating system might be turned off in the summer months, you can still operate your radiators electrically if required. Please see our current brochures for suitable models.

Depending on your choice of radiator, we have several styles to choose from, details of which can be found in our current brochures.

Qualified persons should make all electrical and plumbing connections. When fitting radiators with heating elements, the radiator must always be mounted with the element at the bottom with the radiator in the upright position. Failure to do so may result in a fire hazard.

The Fixed wheels are fitted to the top of the door and the Quick Release wheels are fitted to the bottom.